Russia 2018: Baltiysk to Kaliningrad

Kaliningrad to Baltiysk

Baltiysk (formerly known as Pillau) retained little of his German heritage. The entire Kaliningrad region was Russianized after World War II. Baltiysk’s old buildings stood out recognizable by their dark brick, thick walls. The town was green, clean and orderly which is typical for the places with heavy military presence. Men in uniform, officers and cadets, were everywhere.

The area in front of The Golden Anchor hotel

After the Soviet Union disintegrated into 15 independent states, Kaliningrad region became an exclave, i.e. the area geographically separated from Russia. It is a piece of land stuck between Poland and Lithuania. For years, getting to Kaliningrad region from the Russian mainland was only possible by air and sea. In 2003, Lithuania agreed to allow Russian citizens to travel overland via its territory if they have Schengen or transit visas.

Both Poland and Lithuania are members of the NATO. Kaliningrad region’s unique location makes it strategically extremely important. It serves as a defensive and offensive outpost. It is no surprise that the region houses 2 air bases and a large number of ballistic missiles. Baltiysk is home to a major naval base. I saw vessels, big and small, all over the aquatic area. What astonished me is that there were no restrictions on moving around the town or taking photos. Military vehicles of all kinds were on the square near my hotel. Cadets were preparing them for a parade. I asked for permission to photograph the machinery and took a lot of pictures. I never before had a chance to walk between armored vehicles and to have such a close look at them.

From the square, I walked to the monument to Peter the Great who established the Russian Baltic Fleet, then strolled along Baltiysk embankment. At the end of it, there is a recently installed monument to Peter’s daughter, Empress Elizabeth. It is the equestrian statue which is taller and grander than the famous Bronze Horseman in St. Petersburg.

Empress Elizabeth on horseback in the dress of the Colonel of the Life Guards of the Preobrazhensky Regiment.

I loved breathing in the salty sea breeze and felt much better in Baltiysk than in Kaliningrad. The sandy Vistula (Baltiyskaya) Spit stretched for miles. I wished I had time to take a long walk on the beach. In a small swamp nearby, a choir of frogs performed its evening songs. A leafy park looked welcoming. The tranquility of this place contrasted sharply with the presence of the military there.

The night was falling and I had to return to the hotel. Not trusting myself anymore, I asked the receptionist to wake me up at 6 a.m. to ensure sufficient time to get to Kaliningrad. Catching my train at the latest moment may have not worked.

The bus left at 6.45 a.m. Despite the grey morning, my mood was buoyant. I really liked the backwater Baltiysk with all its controversial Soviet past and no less problematic present.

The bus conductor told me to put my backpack on the overhead shelf although many seats were vacant.

‘I get fined for 1,000 rubles if passengers do not follow the rules and 1,000 rubles is my 2-day pay,’ she explained to me. This meant that her monthly salary was 15,000 rubles ($217).

In Kaliningrad, I had breakfast at McDonald’s before taking the train from one part of Russia to another via two foreign countries. The ride to St. Petersburg was 25 hours and I planned to eat at the train restaurant hoping that the food would be good and affordable.