Seoul
The start time of the DMZ tour was 8 a.m. The bus was almost full after all passengers were picked up from their hotels. The driving took about one hour. I was glad to see a bit of South Korean countryside from the bus window. So far, I had not left the city.
The bus stopped before entering the DMZ and everyone produced their passports. We were advised against getting any stamps in our passports that mention the DMZ in case some border protection officer confuses visiting the DMZ with a trip to North Korea.
The first stop was at the museum where our guide told us the history of the two Koreas and how the DMZ came to existence.
The Korean Peninsula was liberated by the Allies in 1945. After 35 years of Japanese rule, Korea became independent. The World War II was over but a new war began. On the 8th of August 1945, in between the two nuclear bombs dropped on Japan by the US, the Soviet Union declared war on Japan.
The Soviet forces quickly occupied the north of the peninsula. Eager to stop their advancement, the US troops occupied the south. Things were happening very fast. On the 10th of August, two young officers whose knowledge about Korea was next to none were ordered to define the occupation line for the US. Using a National Geographic map, they decided on the 38th parallel because it divided Korea roughly in two equal parts leaving the capital, Seoul, in the American zone. The Soviet Union accepted the terms. That was how the world powers divided one nation into two countries without consulting Koreans themselves.
The demilitarized zone (DMZ) was established to separate the two Koreas. Both sides of the DMZ are heavily fortified. In 1952, Freedom Bridge over the Imjin River was officially open. It became a link between these countries and truly a path to freedom for the soldiers returning from captivity in North Korea.
Both countries installed loudspeakers along the DMZ that blasted propaganda, news and music over to the other side. North Korea broadcasted reports on how happily people lived in their country and how miserable life was in South Korea. Some South Koreans initially believed that and defected. They regretted their decision when they learned the truth about North Korea but there was no way back. Years later, South Korea became a highly developed country and the tables turned. The broadcasting stopped in 2006 and resumed in 2016 in response to North Korean nuclear tests. In 2018, the loudspeakers were dismantled as a goodwill gesture in anticipation of the summit between the leaders of North and South Koreas.
The tour included Dora Observatory located at the top of Mount Dora. Visitors can view through binoculars the village of Kijong-dong and the city of Kaesong near the border. The village is also known as Propaganda Village because of the loudspeakers that were installed there. I was curious to see a bit of North Korea but there is really not much to look at – buildings, farm fields and roads that could be anywhere in the world.
In 1974, a North Korean defector tipped South Korea about underground tunnels that lead toward Seoul. No one knows how many such tunnels exist. To date, four such tunnels with blasting lines were discovered. It is believed that they were built for a planned aggression by North Korea because of their direction from north to south. North Korea claimed that the tunnels were for coal mining; however there is no coal in this area.
The third tunnel is open to public. Of course, I joined the long line to see the tunnel and walked to the end of it. No photos are allowed in the tunnel, but even if they were allowed there is nothing inside. It is just rough granite walls where water drips on visitors’ heads. Some may feel claustrophobic in it. The tunnel is wide enough for 2 people and it runs about 73 m (240 ft) below ground.
Another attraction at the DMZ is a riddled by 1,200 bullets steam locomotive. It was derailed by bombs during the Korean War. The rusting locomotive was later moved to a display platform to serve as a reminder of that war.
South Koreans donated a lot of money to restore Dorasan station which is the northernmost stop on the railway line that used to connect them to North Korea. This station is state-of-the art facilities built to screen and process thousands of passengers daily. Only, the rails from it do not go anywhere. The current purpose of the station is mostly symbolic to demonstrate the desire of South Korea to be reunited with the North. The modern building of the station and its platforms are empty. This really makes you to feel the pain of the divided Korean nation.
South Korea lives in hope that one day it will be able to connect the railway at Dorasan to the North Korean side. The station can be made fully operational within two weeks. So, South Korea is ready and waiting.
Hopefully, the will reunite one day like Germany did!
That’s right!
Very interesting and educational!!
Thank you, Anne