Macedonia – Petrich, Bulgaria
There were three places in the vicinity of Petrich that I wanted to visit: the ancient city Heraclea Sintica, the other Vanga Museum and hot springs in Rupite. All three places are located within several kilometers from each other which makes it possible to see all of them the same day. I could not figure out the optimal route for the day trip. The online information differed from the handwritten schedules at the bus and train stations. The railroad was shown on the map. At least, there was no doubt where the train ran. The bus routes were not that obvious. Totally confused, I decided that it would be easier to solve the transportation problem when I got there. The starting point should be the ancient city. It was not accessible by public transport; I had to take a taxi to it anyway.
The hotel breakfast was so copious that it would suffice for two grown-up men. I stuffed myself with food. It was possible that I would not get a chance to have a proper meal until evening. The day was going to be hot, +35⁰C. I packed a big bottle of water and set off for my trip.
A taxi to Heraclea Sintica was15 levs ($8) for a 10-minute ride. The fee was fixed, printed on a laminated page and not negotiable. Along the road, there were high posts installed specifically for storks to nest. I admired the birds standing in their huge nests but did not dare to ask the driver to pull over so I could take photos. I regret now that I had not done that. The taxi stopped by the diggings. I asked the driver about the road to Rupite. He pointed straight and told me to keep right at the fork.
The Roman city, Heraclea Sintica, was discovered recently, in 2007. It is still being excavated but a part of it is open for visitors. The was founded in the 4th century, BC, and named after Heracles. Two strong earthquakes destroyed the city and it was abandoned. The excavation area is not large; it takes 20 minutes to see it all.
It was early enough and the sun was low when I started towards Rupite. I turned right at the fork as the taxi driver said. The railway road also went to the right. I stuck to it as to Ariadne’s thread because of my poor navigation skills. I can get lost in the suburb where I have lived for 20 years.
On the other side, I saw a large board with a map of the area. I studied the map and realized that I should have turned left at the fork and now I was close to the village of General Todorov which was exactly opposite Rupite across the river. What should I do? Go back to the fork? I was quite far from it; it was already hot and I did not like the idea of crossing that bridge again. Or continue to Todorov and try to find a means of transportation from there to Rupite? Todorov was much closer and I decided to go there.
In the village, I learned that they have no buses or taxis. Who needs them if everyone owns a car? Besides, there is a train that goes in the direction of Rupite and, by the way, it would be departing soon. The locals walked me to the station and left there under the supervision of the station manager whom they entrusted with the task of making sure that I took the correct train and did not stray farther.
The train consisted of the engine car and one passenger car with yellow plush couches. The ride was 3 minutes across that very bridge where I recently walked. I tried to pay for the ticket to the conductor – there was no ticket office at the station – instead of taking the money, he pushed me toward the door and told to get off asap if I did not want to miss Rupite – the train stop was one minute. The time was barely enough to say ‘thank you’ and to roll down the steps on the railway embankment. I looked around and noticed that I was back to the fork where I took the wrong turn.
The road to the left led to the mineral springs where I could have been 2 hours earlier if I had not paid a visit to Todorov.